12 Steps to Successful Tree Planting
(Contributed by All-Star Volunteer Christian Loomis)

Step 1- Selection. Consider the species tolerance to the following factors:

• soil type /soil test
• water availability
• mature height and spread
• light exposure
• maintenance needs

Step 2 -Time your planting.

Trees transplant better when they are dormant and the environmental conditions are not going to be a stress factor. This would be October until bud break. The fall is considered optimal because the earth is still warm and roots can grow somewhat before cold winter temperatures.

Step 3-Dig the planting hole.

• twice as wide as the root ball and slightly shallower
• check size by placing the tree in its hole (lift by rootball not trunk)
• loosen the floor of the hole somewhat to allow for drainage and root growth if the sides of the hole have become glazed as a result of digging (mainly wet clay soils) then the sides of the hole need to be loosened to allow for root growth and drainage.
• do not amend the soil unless the entire area of the mature root zone is to be amended.

Step 4: Carefully place tree in planting hole lifting underneath the rootball, not the trunk

• containers-cut off roots growing through the pot using pruners-loosen tree inside the pot by lying on its side and pressing with the hands or knee-remove pot by sliding the pot off the root ball-inspect rootball for circling roots (these will be woody roots) and cut off circling portion using pruners disturbing only circling roots (the non-woody white root tips are used for nutrient and water uptake and are greatly needed)-place in hole
• ball and burlap (B&B)--loosen wire basket-place in hole
• check tree to make sure that it is about one inch higher than the soil level (to allow for settling) and vertically straight from all angles

Step 5: Backfill evenly around rootball using the soil from the planting hole

• break up clods as needed
• remove grass and other weeds
• B&B trees: pull wire basket handles down so that they are against or bent down into the ground, unwrap burlap from the trunk and remove by cutting off top flaps( the burlap can act as a wick and draw water away from the soil-however it is not practical to remove from the rest of the rootball)
• gently press soil of the planting hole with hands to remove large air pockets that could damage or kill roots, being careful not to compact the soil
• the finished level of backfill should be continuously even and basically level from the edge of the planting hole to the rootball with no more than one inch of backfill covering the rootball

Step 6: Form a temporary water basin around the outside edge of the rootball about three inches high and firm soil into place with hands

Step 7: Mulch the exposed soil

• two to four inches thick
• keep about two inches away from trunk to reduce crown rot and damage
  from rodents

Step 8: Water

• twice, about ten minutes apart to further settle the soil
• do not pack or stamp wet soil as compaction of soil air spaces will result
• routinely as needed:soil should not dry out completely

Step 9: Staking and tying

• position stakes outside the planting hole in soil that has not been disturbed
• tie tree about one foot above the soil surface only if the tree is prone to leaning or falling over leaving enough slack in the tie so that the tree can sway with the wind
• use flat belting to decrease damage to the bark and transport systems, do not use wire and hose to tie the tree
• remove ties after one growing season because unremoved ties will girdle branches or trunk
• use stakes without ties to protect the tree from lawn mowers and other potential damage (two for narrow strips and a minimum of three evenly spaced around the hole for larger areas)

Step 10: Prune sparingly

• remove dead wood, damaged branches and structural problems

Step 11: Fertilize

• do not fertilize at time of planting :wait a year before fertilizing and do not fertilize in summer
• water soluble fertilizers are less likely to cause salt burn
• do not use fertilizers with high Nitrogen levels (high N levels cause foliar growth flushes that have little carbohydrate reserves, thus low resistance to stresses and ties up water)
• do use time release fertilizers

Step 12: Maintenance

• water and check routinely for damage
• while young the tree should be checked for structural problems: crossing branches, crown density, double/multiple leaders, branches growing toward the street or structures such as buildings, fences, walls and power lines